By Terry Futrell
Say the word “barbecue” around Morgan County folks and mouths start watering. You may need to further explain yourself because, according to Merriam-Webster, there are two different definitions for barbecue that relate to very different methods of cooking food. One simply says, “to roast or broil on a rack or revolving spit over or before a source of heat.” That sounds a lot like grilling to me, which is very different from what most of us would call barbecue. For that, you must look at Webster’s second definition: “to prepare by seasoning and cooking usually slowly and with exposure to low heat and to smoke.” Around here, we call that “smoking” and characterize it as cooking “low and slow.”
Morgan County is blessed with several establishments that smoke barbecue low and slow. As a self-proclaimed connoisseur of “real” barbecue, I try to sample as many as I can. I have also spent several months perfecting my own smoking methods and can tell you that it ain’t easy! There is as much black magic as there is technique for smoking meats. There are so many variables that affect the nature and taste of smoked meats that one might even consider it rocket science.
Actually, there is a scientific basis that also must be factored into the process. Ribs are made tender when the collagens and connective tissue literally melt away. This only begins to happen at an internal temperature of 170 degrees, and ribs must be maintained above this temperature long enough for the process to complete. The recommended internal temperature for tender ribs is 190-205 degrees.
Some of the many factors affecting the final product include the type of wood used, wet or dry brining or no brining, marinade used for injecting the meat (if injected), cooking temperature, seasoning (rub) used, use of a wrap for braising the meat after smoking, liquid used for braising, sauce used to baste and “finalize” the meat (unless a dry rub is used), and of course the temperature and time of each phase of the smoking process. The most important factor of all is the pitmaster doing the smoking, because it is through him or her that the artistry element of smoking is applied.
As you might suspect, the best barbecue is a melding of several different complementary flavors, particularly the meat, the smoke, the seasonings, and the sauce (if used). Barbecue is further complicated by terms like “competition style” and “fall off the bone.” Competition style ribs maintain their structure as they are being eaten, one bite at a time. On the other hand, one may very well have to eat fall off the bone ribs with a fork. Many who seriously prepare barbecue follow the competition circuit, which offers the potential for much prestige and cash to the winners. There is even a certification of barbecue judges and specific judging criteria.
So, how is the ordinary Morgan Countian on the street to know which of the Morgan County barbecue establishments has the best “Q”? I have sampled all six of those reviewed in this article and I would love to be able to tell you. But because personal preference has so much to do with how each person reacts to their barbecue, the best that I can do is to tell you something about each of these establishments. Then, you must decide which ones to try as you seek to find the best barbecue for you. I can say this with absolute certainty – several of these Morgan County smokers do not have to play second fiddle to anyone – their “Q” is as good as any you will find.
As a side note, I have heard good things about Darrell Cooper’s smoked meats, but we were unable to schedule a time together for this article. The following reviews are in alphabetical order.
Disclaimer: No weight was gained or lost doing this review.
Pitmaster JohnBoy uses a huge, custom-built, reverse flow smoker that he dubs “Smokezilla.” His methods are traditional and “old-school” with no automation or technology added to the mix. He typically uses a blend of white oak and hickory split logs, but sometimes adds either pecan or other wood such as apple or cherry to the mix to better complement the meat that he is smoking. Smokezilla is capable of smoking 98 butts at a time in just the main chamber of the smoker, with the capability to add another 30 to 40 butts.
If a critter walks, swims, flies, or crawls on the ocean floor, you are likely to eventually find it on JohnBoy’s smoker. Brisket and ribs are his specialties, but JohnBoy is always conjuring up something different, such as his recent German lineup of meats for Oktoberfest. Another dish that has had good reception includes a crab cake on top of his smoky mac-n-cheese. JohnBoy’s latest creation that is seeing tremendous demand is the MoCo Monster – a sandwich with smoked bologna, pulled pork, and pulled chicken with nacho cheese.
JohnBoy Caddell of JohnBoy’s Family Barbecue has drawn national attention through the Discovery Channel’s Moonshiner: Smoke Ring barbecue competition. [Photo by Terry Futrell]
In addition, many of the sides conjured up by sister Autumn are prepared using the smoker to add flavor. One of Autumn’s creations is my favorite – smoked deviled eggs. Makes my mouth water just to think about them. Then, there are sides such as kicked up collard greens and smokehouse potato salad. Autumn’s creativity in preparing sides is a perfect complement to JohnBoy’s creativity with smoked meats.
I sampled JohnBoy’s ribs, pulled pork, and brisket for this review. All were very tender and moist with a pleasing flavor. While JohnBoy makes his own rubs and sauces, he has adopted an approach of “simpler is better.” As a result, you won’t find overpowering flavors in his smoked meats, but a milder, complementary blend of flavors.
JohnBoy’s was named Grand Champion in the Mountain Laurel Festival in 2018 and 2019, was recently voted best food truck in Roane County for 2021, and was nominated for Best of the Best in Knoxville by City View Magazine for the past three years. In addition to being a contestant on Discovery Channel’s Moonshiner: Smoke Ring show, JohnBoy was also featured in several Walmart commercials.
It strains my vocabulary to find a word that adequately describes the Lilly Pad. Perhaps it is best to use their own words “Paradise Island,” even though it is surrounded by a sea of nature rather than by water. Located near Lilly Bluff at 920 Ridge Road in Lancing, the Lilly Pad is an outdoor gathering place that offers food, live music in the evenings, relaxation, fellowship, and craft beers that are brewed on site.
The Lilly Pad is the brainchild of owners Del and Marte Scruggs and has been in business for five years. They like to characterize the Lilly Pad as having an “Appalachian Caribbean” atmosphere, likely because of the many influences of Del’s travels. Del’s transition from deep-sea treasure diver to the Lilly Pad is an interesting story – be sure to ask him about it when you visit. Unlike other barbecue establishments that smoke a variety of meats, pitmaster Del normally smokes only butts seasoned by his custom rub to create the pulled pork that is used to make the two barbecue products regularly offered at their food truck, the Sauced Frog. Del has been smoking meats since he was a child more than 40 years ago. Marte makes the custom BBQ sauce that is used as a topping for their food offerings.
Del and Marte Scruggs of Lilly Pad Hopyard Brewery stand next to their historic smoker that was previously used by “Big” Earl Kreis of Deer Lodge. [Photo by Terry Futrell]
Pork nachos are available on Fridays and Saturdays from noon to 9 pm. The dish includes pulled pork, queso, salsa, jalapeno, onion, BBQ sauce, and sour cream. Even the tortillas are handcrafted by Marte. While I did not sample the nachos on this trip to the Lilly Pad, I did have those a year ago and they were delicious.
A new item that is generally available on either Friday or Saturday is called the Lilly Hoedown – this is the item that I chose to sample for this review. The Hoedown has a fried cornbread fritter for its base. My mom used to call these hoecakes. The fritter is piled high with pulled pork, pinto beans, BBQ sauce, curtido, sour cream, and sweet heat pickles. Curtido is a fermented cabbage slaw that Del ran across on one of his trips to Central America. In case you are wondering what this combination of food items tastes like, I can tell you that it was so good that I quickly scarfed down every bite, even though I had just come from stuffing myself at another barbecue establishment. Before eating the Lilly Hoedown, I tasted the pulled pork and found it to be very tender, moist, and flavorful.
Del smokes his meats using a blend of hickory, maple, and cherry split logs in a large custom offset smoker. The smoker has quite a history. It was previously used by legendary pitmaster “Big” Earl Kreis of Deer Lodge before his death a few years ago. Big Earl was a barbecue pioneer in Morgan and Fentress Counties and had a large following who craved his barbecue. Even Martha Stewart once ate barbecue cooked on this smoker.
Who says subsistence living is plain and boring? For the Tew family of Spirit Wolf Farms in Lancing, life is anything but boring. Teaching every member of their family to live off the land, the Tews are staying in close touch with nature like their Native American ancestors. Part of their simple way of life is cooking up some mighty good barbecue on their homemade offset smoker that was built in a single weekend by son Justin. The Tews are strictly mobile, serving up barbecue at events and public functions, or any place else they are invited.
Justin Tew of Spirit Wolf Farms is shown with the custom smoker that he built himself and on which he smokes a variety of meats, including wild hog. [Photo by Terry Futrell]
When pitmaster Justin was asked how long he had been smoking meats, his answer was “ever since I was a kid.” For one who appears to be in his mid-twenties, that means Justin already has spent many years learning his craft and it shows (or rather tastes) in his smoked meat products. But the family has only been selling their products to the public for about two years since they moved to Morgan County from Florida.
Justin smokes a variety of meats using split logs that are a blend of oak and hickory. These include the typical pork butts and ribs, but Justin has learned to smoke things not typically found at other local establishments, such as summer sausage and salami. One of Justin’s specialties is Cajun-smoked fried eggs. But the thing that really makes the Tew enterprise so unique is smoking wild meats, including wild hog and venison.
Justin served up a portion of ribs, pulled pork, and venison that were smoked using his own special rubs. Yep, he has a variety of rubs tailored specifically for each meat that he smokes. The ribs were very moist, flavorful, and fall off the bone. Forget about the gooey sweetness of ribs served up by many restaurants – Justin’s rub contained no sugar, and the resulting natural flavor of his ribs was outstanding. Unlike other establishments, Justin simmers his pulled pork in a marinade before serving that adds a hint of butter flavoring that was also very good. Not knowing what to expect from the pulled smoked venison, I was pleasantly surprised by the mild, flavorful taste that was not in the least “gamey.” Justin offers 15 different sauces to complement his smoked meats. I sampled his Dr. Pepper-cherry-chipotle sauce with the pulled pork, and it was very good.
Just when I thought I could not eat another bite, mom Lilly Tew whipped up one of her Indian Tacos and put it before me. Made with Indian frybread and topped with pulled pork, lettuce, tomato, sour cream, and cheese, it was a meal by itself. I had my first Indian Tacos just a few weeks ago in South Dakota, including one at an establishment that had been featured on the Food Network because of their Indian Tacos. Believe me, Lily Tew’s Indian Taco ranks right up there with the best.
The Tew family makes a variety of sides to go with their smoked meats and offers some unique desserts conjured up by sisters Julie Tew and Jane Mills. I was so full that I had to pass on the desserts.
The Tews have competed at the Wild Hog Festival for the past two years and won 1st place in both chicken and pork in 2020. They placed second overall in 2021.
No one is more serious about their barbecue than Matt Thomas, owner and pitmaster of Uncle Matt’s Barbecue. Matt grew up in Deer Lodge in Morgan County and has been smoking meats professionally for more than ten years. Matt’s business is mobile only – he sets up at various events and public functions, and he also caters weddings, religious, corporate, and school events.
Matt’s seriousness is demonstrated by the fact that he is a Master Certified Judge with the Kansas City Barbecue Society, an E.A.T. Certified Food Judge with the World Food Championship, and a Certified Judge with the National Barbecue Tour. He has judged more than 75 competitions from Kansas to Florida and everywhere in between. It should come as no surprise that Matt smokes his meats competition style. Matt uses only hickory wood in a custom-built offset smoker, and splits his own logs sourced from Morgan County landowners.
Matt Thomas of Uncle Matt’s Barbecue smokes wings at World’s Fair Park during the Big Kahuna Wing Festival. [Photo submitted]
Matt smokes a variety of meats, but brisket is his specialty. Other meats include butts, baby back ribs, chicken, bologna, smoked meatballs, and others as requested. Matt makes his own custom rub and smokes his meats using only dry rub (no glaze) unless otherwise requested. He makes three custom sauces – regular, hot, and fire. Matt’s hot barbecue sauce placed 10th in a nationwide competition based in Kansas City.
Matt provided me a sample of his ribs and pulled pork, along with some of his regular barbecue sauce. Even though Matt’s ribs were smoked competition style, they were very tender and moist. The pulled pork was also tender and moist. Both the ribs and pulled pork were very flavorful. Matt did a great job of blending the flavors of the meat, the smoke, and the seasonings, with each complementing the others. While neither of the meats provided by Matt needed any sauce, I sampled his regular sauce with the pulled pork. It was very tasty and complemented the meat well with a very pleasing bit of “edge.”
Matt and his mother make all the sides served with his barbecue, including made-from-scratch banana pudding (the only real banana pudding as far as I am concerned – custard filling made the old-fashioned way). Another of Matt’s specialties is smoked brisket chili, which has placed 1st or 2nd in several competitions.
Matt has competed in the Big Kahuna Wing Festival in Knoxville and won 3rd place in Fire, 5th place in Buffalo, and 6th place in Sweet. He placed 5th overall in State Champion competition in chicken wings out of 37 competitors.
This little gem is in the middle of downtown Wartburg, right across the street from the courthouse at 117 North Kingston Street. War Pigs is one of only two BBQ establishments in Morgan County that has indoor eating, and is the only one that is open year-round. It is also the only woman-owned BBQ establishment in the county. Smoking Q has historically been dominated by men, but pitmasters Amanda Brown and Tori England are making their mark in Morgan County. They have been smoking for eight years and the restaurant is now in its fourth year of operation.
War Pigs smokes a variety of meats, including butts, ribs, brisket, chicken, bologna, wings, and hot dogs. I tried the ribs, pulled pork, and pulled chicken – all were good, but the ribs and chicken were outstanding. Both were very moist, tender, and flavorful. The ribs literally fell off the bone as they were served. Four other customers who were in the restaurant also tried the ribs, and all agreed that they were excellent.
Tori England and Amanda Brown of War Pig’s Barbecue show smiling faces as they stand in front of their commercial smoker. [Photo by Terry Futrell]
War Pigs does not take part in BBQ competitions but strives to please their customers who prefer their ribs “fall off the bone.” War Pigs uses their own custom rubs, one for pork and beef and another for chicken. They also have two sauces that are made in-house, but frankly their BBQ doesn’t need any sauce. Their meats are smoked using a commercial vertical smoker using a blend of apple and cherry wood.
War Pigs offers several specialty foods made from their smoked meats. These include a loaded baked potato, loaded fries, and chicken salad. A specialty item offered is deep-fried corn-on-the-cob; I have heard others rave about this. I have also heard that War Pigs offers some mighty good old-fashioned milkshakes.
War Pigs also offers bottled beer on their menu.
When the historic Brushy Mountain Prison at Petros opened as a major tourist attraction four years ago, the Warden’s Table restaurant opened at the site to feed the thousands of expected visitors. The menu changes daily, but the heart of the menu is always smoked meats. Pitmasters Sam Waddington and Michelle Schaar smoke meats daily to serve up several thousand plates of food during the four days that the restaurant is open each week.
Ribs and pulled pork are staples on the Warden’s Table menu, but on a given day you may find smoked turkey, smoked bologna, smoked hot dogs, or other meats. Sam and Michelle use a large commercial smoker that has the capacity to simultaneously smoke 64 pork butts – that’s a lot of pulled pork sandwiches or pulled pork nacho platters. They always use split hickory logs for their source of smoke. Both developed their smoking techniques when the restaurant opened four years ago and have been smoking meats ever since. They make their own custom rubs for the meat but use a commercial sauce in the restaurant.
Sam Waddington of The Warden’s Table is busy smoking meats for their many visitors to Brushy Mountain Prison. [Photo by Terry Futrell]
They are very proud of their sides at the Warden’s Table and believe their sides distinguish them from other places that serve barbecue – all are homemade daily on site, most using recipes passed down from Michelle’s grandmother. While the available sides are typical of those served by other barbecue restaurants, they also reflect the uniqueness of the Warden’s Table. One example is the slaw served with their barbecue. The slaw is vinegar-based rather than mayonnaise- or milk-based. It is both tart and sweet, and I found it to be a refreshing change from some other restaurants. They also serve a loaded baked potato and pulled pork nachos at the Warden’s table, which serve as a combination of meat and side dishes.
I tried the ribs and the pulled pork nacho plate at the Warden’s Table. I had both baked beans and slaw with the ribs. The ribs were very tender and near fall off the bone and the pulled pork on the nachos was also very tender. The flavors were very mild and not overpowering. Both the baked beans and slaw were very good.
The Warden’s Table also offers canned beer on their menu.
The Warden’s Table is only open Thursday through Sunday during October and will further reduce their days and hours in November. Be sure to check their web site for changes in operating hours. The Warden’s Table is closed during the winter months.
